army painter quickshade instead of painting

Army painter quickshade instead of painting skin#

It will dry with a high gloss finish which will look really bad but don’t panic. This shade takes at least 24 hours to dry. This only takes a few seconds and you’re done! Now you just have to wait. Here we have too much so I’m just removing it with the brush. Use a brush you don’t care about because this will eventually ruin whatever it touches.Īpply a good coat all over but don’t go crazy because it will all slide down the miniature and collect at the base and you’re going to have to remove the excess. It’s supposed to save time but it takes longer removing the excess after you dip than it does to apply by hand. Some people just dip the model straight into the pot. Stir it thoroughly then apply generously to the entire mini. Don’t shake it or it will eventually turn into a brick. This is a nice product but you have to use it carefully. This will provide generic shading to the entire miniature and protect it with an extremely tough varnish when it’s dry. Now comes the easy part! I’m using Army Painter’s Dark Tone Quickshade. I thinned Down Evil Sunz Scarlet and carefully highlighted the Mournfang/Evil Sunz Scarlet areas.īalor Brown works well for highlighting both sets of brown pants and I put a couple coats of Yriel Yellow on the yellow neckerchief to brighten it up.ĭon’t look under his hat. I brightened the lush wavy hair with touches of Administratum Grey. I used Skragg Brown for the all the Mournfang Brown areas and Runefang Silver for the metallics. I used Gorthor Brown to highlight all the Dryad Bark and used a touch of Baneblade for some brighter edge highlights.

I used Fenrisian Grey for all the blue highlights. Instead of applying shades then highlights, I’ll be adding rough and quick highlights now, then using the quick shade over the entire model as a final step (almost final). I would rather use a brighter tone but yellow has rough time covering whatever is beneath it so I’m using this Base paint to give the best chance I can. The last foundation color is Averland Sunset for the neckerchief for this model. The face on the model with the larger hat doesn’t really need eyes since his face is so messy. I usually use Vallejo colors for the eyes as well but Ceramite White and Abaddon Black work just fine. I prefer using Vallejo metallics, but these two Citadel paints are decent and easy to work with compared to most of their metallics. In an effort to keep the paint list entirely within Citadel’s line for this post I’m using Leadbelcher for the swords, daggers, ax and belt buckles and using Retributor Armor for the hilts and pommels of the swords/daggers and the butts of the pistols. I use Rhinox Hide for the rim of the bases. I usually don’t use a pure white for a base tone but since the quick shade will be darkening everything, I’m using Ceramite White for the white shirt and all the socks. Skavenblight Dinge goes on the broad-brimmed hat and the scabbard and I used the lighter Stormvermin Fur for the hair ok these 3 models. I used Mournfang Brown for the belts, cartridge boxes and pistols and Steel Legion Drab for #4’s pants and hatband. The XV-88 was used for 3’s pants (as mentioned above).įor the red on the Axe Man’s pants I’m mixing a 2:1 combination of Mournfang Brown and Evil Sunz Scarlet and I’ll use the same color on the sash for Mr Stocking Cap.

Russ Grey covers the pants for #1, the neckerchief for #2, the hat for #3 and the shirt for #4. I always use XV-88 for the bases (I’m using it later for the pants on the figure 3rd from R as well).ĭryad Bark is a nice Brown I’ll use on the shirt for #1, hair for #2, neckerchief for #3 and vest for #4 (L to R).

Army painter quickshade instead of painting skin#

The drawback is that most of the lighter shades I’m using are Citadel’s Layer paints which need a couple layers since they aren’t meant to be used as a base coat.Īs usual I start with the skin and I’m using Kislev Flesh. The quickshade product I’m going to use is going to darken the entire miniature so I’m going to start with lighter colors to compensate. The zenithal priming will be especially helpful to give us a head start on the highlights when we use this simplified method. You can find more details on prepping these models in my Preparing Models post. There are some nasty pieces on the hats and the sailor shooting his pistol has a pretty messed up face. I used flush cutters, a craft knife and file to remove extra flash and mold lines. The finished minis won’t be as vibrant as my previous tutorials but they should take about half the time and considerably less colors of paint. I’ll be using an entirely different approach in this guide with an aim of producing good quality results in less time by utilizing a “quickshade” product.